Saturday, August 1, 2009

Protecting Your Prize Posessions

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As I get ready to work I put on a comfortable old pair of jeans, slip into a pair of leather work shoes and grab one of a half dozen pair of safety glasses that sit strewn across every work surface. Then with my bare hands I start to pull the glass I will work with that day. I have worked for years with my bare hands safely and without incident. This is not uncommon. Of all the glass artists have met it has been rare to see anyone wear gloves except in specific circumstances like opening an operating kiln or charging a vitrigraph pot. You respect the material, work smart and use common sense, and for the most part they cuts you endure are scratches no worse then a paper cut. However recently I learned the impacts that can occur in just an instant due to an accident. My hands may not be pretty but they are precious to me. Seeking to provide them with the appropriate level of protection I began the search for the right pair of work gloves.
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Finding gloves wasn't hard. They are everywhere from your local hardware store to a marinade of online distributors. But I didn't want to buy just any pair of gloves. After all if you’re going to do something, do it right. I knew a "cut resistant" glove would not suffice as injury could occur from not only slicing cuts but also puncture/impact cuts and abrasion. The gloves I was looking for would have to be cut, puncture and abrasion resistant. At the same time I did not want them to inhibit my mobility, flexibility or comfort. I know I'm picky. Isn't everyone?
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This first thing I noticed was that a gloves resistance is rated with levels ranging from 0 to 6, 6 being the highest level of protection. There are three standards of measurement. The ASTM F1790 is a U.S. standard, the ISO 13997 an international standard and EN 388 the European Standard. Each one has its own manner of testing. I’ll spear you the details just keep in mind variations in testing can make this measurement relative. In short, it’s useful but should not be the sole determination in your decision.
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Look closely at the type of material the glove is made of. Metal Mesh and HexArmor provide the highest level of cut resistance, followed by Fiber-Metal blends like Kevlar Steel or Dyneema. Materials commonly used in work gloves also include Kevlar, Vectran and Twaron. These materials are five times stronger then steel. Kevlar is also known to provide protection from heat an added bonus for a glass artist. Looking at a pair of cotton, leather or latex gloves? Keep looking. Although they may appear substantial the level of protection provided by these materials is minimal. Material choice is one of the most important factors. Also consider the weight of the material, the tightness of the weave or thread count, and any coating applied to the fabric like nitrole or latex.
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All this is starting to sound a little to complicate for just a pair of gloves. Call in the professionals. The turning point in my decision took place when I spoke directly with manufactures. It was the HexArmor Representative who impressed me the most. He asked a host of questions to evaluate my specific needs. What did I do? How did I work? Did I need protection from the glass, the machinery or both? And to all this I added I would need to be able to use these gloves wet and dry. Considering all this he recommended 9010 from HexArmor's level six series. Levels six, that’s was a good start. They are made with Hexarmor, a material ranked right up there with metal mesh for its protective qualities. The palms of the gloves have a cut resistant shell with a nitrile coating to increase grip. I was Sold. The moment I hung up the phone I got online and purchased a pair.
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I am very happy with my gloves. I have made a few minor adjustments for my own personal use, which you may notice in the photo. Let me explain. I have small hands, specifically short fingers. I ordered the smallest size glove available and the fingers were still a ½ inch to long. This coupled with the need to feel a piece while I am working lead to my decision to cut the tips of the fingers off. I am fairly sure the manufacture would not support me in this decision. When cutting the gloves I made sure only to expose the very tip of the fingers, getting ride of that excess ½” of material while leaving the vital parts of my fingers and hand as protected as possible. I then sewed the edges so they would not fray. By opening the glove I risk something can get inside or I could cut the tip of a finger. At a personal level, I’m comfortable this is right balance of protection and flexibility for me.

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Photo by Nina Hibler
Me using my gloves while grinding a glass tile on a lapidary wheel
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